How to Get Your Money Back After a Scam

Just been scammed? The next hour counts for more than anything else you will do. Here is the recovery playbook in the order to run it — the first phone call, how refunds work for each way of paying, where to report, and the follow-up trick to sidestep.

Whether you see any of it again turns far more on how quickly you move than on how you were caught. The systems that claw money back tend to reward the people who act inside the first hour and quietly close on those who hesitate. The urge to sit still, replay the mistake and feel too embarrassed to phone anyone is completely natural — and it is also the most costly instinct there is. Work the steps below in sequence now, and let the feelings wait their turn. It costs nothing, and none of it needs any expertise.

Step 1 — Ring whoever actually moved the money

Your very first call goes to the organisation that holds or sent the cash: your bank, building society or card issuer. The fraud number is on your card and inside your banking app, and most UK providers can also be reached on the free 159 line, a shortcut that drops you straight through to your own bank's fraud desk. Because you are the one dialling, 159 is safe in a way an incoming call can never be. Say what happened in a sentence — you have been defrauded, this is the payment, please stop or recover it. Two outcomes hang on that call being early: the bank may be able to halt or pull the money back while it is still moving, and it opens a formal, time-stamped case that every later step builds on. Make the call before you sit down to assemble evidence — proof can catch up, a departed payment cannot.

Step 2 — Match the refund route to how you paid

If a card was involved

Cards give you the strongest position. Ask your provider to raise a chargeback — a mechanism the card schemes run, rather than a law — which lets your bank recover the amount from the merchant's side when an order fails to turn up, lands nothing like it was sold, or was taken without your say-so. It applies to debit and credit cards alike, and there is generally a window of about 120 days from the payment or the promised delivery date, so raise it without dawdling. Pay by credit card and a second, legal shield may also apply: for one item with a price tag above £100 — subject to a ceiling of £30,000 — the Consumer Credit Act treats the card company as equally answerable alongside the seller, so you can claim from the card firm itself. Your bank can tell you which of the two routes fits your case.

If you made a bank transfer

A transfer to a fraudster was once treated as lost the instant you approved it. October 2024 changed that. UK banks now sit under a mandatory scheme to refund most people conned into pushing money out themselves — the fraud type the industry labels authorised push payment, and the engine behind a bank impersonation scam. In outline: where you were deceived into sending funds over Faster Payments or CHAPS, the two banks involved share the bill, a verdict typically lands within a handful of working days, and any single payout is subject to an upper limit. It is neither automatic nor certain — some payment types sit outside the rules, and a claim can be trimmed or refused if you brushed past specific warnings or were genuinely careless. So report straight away and make your argument; a transfer is no longer the automatic write-off it used to be.

If you used crypto, a gift card or a personal payment

Be honest with yourself here, because false hope only burns the time that matters. A cryptocurrency payment cannot be undone once the network confirms it, and a gift-card code is as good as spent the moment you read it aloud. Report both regardless — to your bank, and, for crypto sent through an exchange, to that exchange without delay, since occasionally a balance is frozen before it moves on. Money sent through PayPal or a similar service as a personal "friends and family" gift gives up the buyer cover a proper purchase would carry, so open a dispute and state plainly that it was fraud, while keeping your expectations low. The pattern behind all three is the theme of our safe ways to pay guide: the harder something is to reverse, the thinner your chances of recovery.

Step 3 — Report it (and the right body depends on where you live)

Filing a report does more than pursue your own refund; it hands investigators the data that gets fraudulent sites shut down and mule accounts frozen for whoever is targeted next. Which service you tell depends on your part of the UK, and this trips people up. England, Wales and Northern Ireland are served by Action Fraud, online or by phone. Scotland is different: there you call 101 and report to Police Scotland. Whichever nation you are in, a crime happening in front of you or any threat to your safety is a 999 call. Two extra channels are worth using — pass a dodgy text on to 7726, which lets your mobile operator look into it. You can also forward a suspect email to the NCSC's reporting inbox at [email protected]. If a financial company is in the mix, it is worth checking it against the Financial Conduct Authority register too.

Step 4 — Close the doors the scammer may have opened

The money is only half the job. If you keyed details into a fake page or read them out on a call, treat them as compromised and lock everything down.

Do this straight away

  • Cancel and replace any card whose number was exposed.
  • Reset your online-banking password and switch on two-factor login.
  • Change that password anywhere else you had reused it.
  • Pull your credit report and scan it for accounts opened in your name.
  • Ask about a protective registration through a fraud-prevention scheme.

Watch for the follow-up

  • A call soon afterwards "from the bank" that already knows your name and latest payment.
  • Anyone offering to retrieve the lost money in return for a fee.
  • A request for your account details "so the funds can be sent back".
  • Pressure to act on any of the above before you can check it independently.

Beware the second con: recovery scams

There is a nasty coda worth seeing coming. Some time after the first loss — days, weeks, now and then months — a stranger makes contact claiming they can retrieve what you lost, either for a payment up front or once you "confirm" your account details so the money can be returned. That approach is itself a fraud, a recovery scam, and it deliberately hunts down people who have already been burned once. It belongs to the family of advance-fee tricks, where you hand over cash first and nothing ever arrives. A single rule disarms it: real refunds only ever find their way home through your own bank, your card issuer or the official reimbursement process — never through someone who rings you unprompted and wants a payment to begin.

Keep it in proportion

Being scammed is no verdict on your intelligence. Fraud is a trade, and its entire craft is dressing a bad decision up as a sensible one for the length of time it takes to catch you. What stays within your control is the clock, so move fast and park the shame for later. For a slower, calmer read through the same territory, our article on trying to recover money after a scam takes each route in turn.

Learn to pay so this is easier next time

Every refund route above is wider when the payment went on a card. Our payment guide ranks the methods by how well each one lets you undo a bad purchase.

See the safe ways to pay